I was recommended to visit Pignut by a food journalist who had raved on to me not just about the food, but the wonderful narrative behind the owners philosophy of using local produce, foraging and sustainability.
Pignut is based in Helmsley, an upmarket North Yorkshire town with a thriving local fine dining scene with The Star at Harome, The Pheasant and Tommy Banks Black Swan all within short taxi rides as well as great food being served at The Feversham Arms, Feathers and The Black Swan in the town itself.
But having now been and sampled the menu, I can honestly say it is up there with all of them. Something which was also recognised by Pignut being mentioned in the Michelin Guide within 12 months of opening - https://guide.michelin.com/gb/en/north-yorkshire/helmsley/restaurant/pignut
One of the first questions I asked upon arrival was “what was a pignut?”. I guess I had thought it was an acorn, but Laurrissa Cook one of the founders explained that it was actually part of the carrot family, having small fine carrot like leaves and blooms with very delicate white flowers. If you follow to the root you will find a small delicate nut like tubor or ‘pignut’.
Laurissa and her partner, chef Tom Heywood were out on a dog walk and stopped for a bit of foraging near the beautiful St. Gregory’s Minster having just got the keys for their new premises on Bridge Street, Helmsley that day. They had been bouncing ideas for names around but nothing had stuck. The discovery of a small number of Pignut’s whilst out that day was a sign – the inspiration behind the name but also part of the ethos of foraging for local products during each season.
To read more about St.Gregory’s Minster and its unique Anglo Saxon sun dial click here:
The couple regularly forage at the local Helmsley Walled Garden, a short walk from the restaurant
It may be a tenuous link, but the small but beautifully formed Pignut could also be an analogy of the restaurant. We visited on a Wednesday evening, having booked an overnight stay at The Feversham Arms, walking across the market square and grabbing a quick pint of local ale at The Feathers pub. (For more information about The Feversham Arms -https://www.fevershamarmshotel.com).
The restaurant is in an old stone fronted building, we entered and were shown to our table in a small cosy room with atmospheric lighting. We ordered some drinks and were given a number of printed cards to read about some of their partner suppliers.
There were some great moody artworks of light breaking through storm clouds on the North York Moors dotted around the walls as well as some stunning, organic pots shaped as pumpkins and gourds. There was a card detailing which local potters they used for the ornaments and crockery – Luke Seaton, Kath Cox, Iona Crawford Topp, Sylvia Schoer and Lydia Cotton to name a few.
I thought it was great that they were championing these local crafts people. But the artworks were also on loan and for sale from Helmsley’s Saltbox Gallery by a lady called Sheryl Roberts, a contemporary landscape artist. Well worth checking out her work - https://www.sherylroberts.co.uk
As I was having the wine pairing, I skipped a pre-dinner cocktail, but the choice was interesting with selections such as Fig leaf expresso martini and Wild sloe royale.
The first dish arrived – called Wastage. I am sure the name may have put people off previously but it really was a great way to start and make a statement about the couple’s commitment to sustainability. Nothing goes to waste.
The dish changes by season and menu, but today we were served a broth which had been boiled up using the waste from the trout and scallops from later courses. This was served with soda bread crackers and a lovely smoky taramasalata which had been made from the scallop roe.
So many people including my daughter don’t like the orange part of a scallop (not me!) it was great seeing it being used to create something so different, especially as this bit of the scallop has the more robust flavour.
A great start, the very fishy bisque poured into a small cup with apple dressing. The nibbles of taramasalata and crackers great too.
We were onto our first wine pairing next. A Belgian pink sparkling wine – Genoels Elderen Pink Pearl – Brut. It was very fruity and the raspberry’s and strawberry’s really came through.
This was to be served with a local chalk stream trout and Lindisfarne oyster tartar. The dish was beautifully presented in an oyster shell with added crunch from some small soda bread croutons. Again this was a tasty, fresh dish.
Laurissa who had pulled together the whole innovative wine paring, explained how the minerality of the wine worked well the oysters whilst the fruit complemented the trout.
The next course was a Duncombe Park game terrine. This consisted of pheasant, partridge and hare which had all been shot locally on the Dumcombe Park estate homes to the Lord of Feversham. The terrine had been rolled in a kale powder.
I’ve never been a big fan of game, finding the flavours too rich and ‘gamey’, this dish was actually the opposite of what I was expecting. The meatiness of the game bird and hare was not to strong and the pickled carrot it was served with was a revelation being a sharp contrast to the game.
This dish had been paired with a Portuguese wine which used natural grapes and natural yeast. It was light with hints of cranberry and gooseberry and worked fine with the game.
The next dish, I have to say was my favourite. Castle Howard lamb and rocket and russet crown prince pumpkin.
I was worried when Laurissa said that the dish was to be paired with a Lambrusco. I immediately thought of the cheap sweet fruity fizzy wine which was all the rage in the 1970’s, but I needn’t have worried. The wine was an Italian Lambrusco Salamino. It did have a slight sparkle and there was some sweetness but the wine tasted very much of different black fruits which worked well with the lamb.
The lamb and pumpkin dish was wonderful – mixing a tender lamb with shawarma spices and lumps of pumpkin plus pumpkin seeds in a really rich sauce. The spices had a bit of a kick and the lamb was cooked to perfection.
There was a bread course next, a homemade soda bread served with an organic acorn dairy butter and a Fountains Gold cheddar butter. This was paired not with a wine, but with a beer from the local Helmsley Brewery about 30 meters down the road from the restaurant. It was a dark beer called Jacky Boy. Almost a stout and with a slight coffee and chocolate flavour.
Tasty and filling.
There had been music playing very much in the background and I hadn’t really taken much notice, but I did tune in when I heard The Buzzcocks – Ever fallen in love drifting in from the kitchen, especially as its one of my all time favourite tunes!
Onto the next course – a hand dived Orkney Scallop supplied by fish merchants Hodgsons served with Newfield fennel. The scallop was lovely, sweet and tender, served with a cauliflower puree and chilli oil. It also had a wonderful aroma.
The wine pairing with this was for me the strangest of the evening – a Uraguayan Petit Manseng which was basically and orange wine, the wine having been flavoured with orange peel. I liked the sound of the wine and love oranges, but for me whilst it was great trying something different, I think a straight crisp dry white would have probably complimented the dish better. I didn’t mind the orange wine it was pleasant enough, it’s just always a subjective thing with pairings.
The last course before the desserts was a Rievaulx venison and Newfield celeriac. It is worth mentioning that Newfield Organic are one of Pignuts suppliers based in Fadmoor, producing seasonal organic vegetables and herbs. The venison was tender, served pink and really tasty. It was served with a beetroot, apple and wild garlic puree which worked really well with the game.
This was served with a Croatian Teran. It was another natural wine whose earthiness went well with the venison. The wine had strong flavours of cherry and cranberry, with their acidity cutting through the richness of the venison. I loved this wine and I seem to remember Laurissa describing it as “a palette cleanser”!
The first dessert was Newfield parsnip and Hod Me Dods fava bean. I know you are probably thinking that is not a pudding! But believe me it was gorgeous – a sweet parsnip ice cream sandwich with a fava bean caramel which was rich, sweet and chocolatey. Delicious!
It was actually served with a Greek Savatiano – a good choice and almost sherry like.
A quick factoid…Hod Me Dods who supplied the fava beans for the caramel sauce, source organic pulses and grains grown across England and are based in Yorkshire.
Finally, the last dish came. Moorside Mushroom Mousse – that’s not a pudding I hear you say again. I thoroughly enjoyed this. It was different being both sweet and earthy at the same time.
The final wine pairing was inspired – a Uraguayan Alcyone – a thick, dessert wine with strong chocolate flavours which really made the dessert work.
We finished with a peppermint tea rather than coffee, to avoid any caffeine related sleep issues and walked back to our comfortable bed at The Feversham Arms.
This was a lovely meal and dining experience. The food and wine really was exceptional but there was far more to this unique dining experience than that.
The small team were great, Laurissa and her assistant came and told the story behind each dish. Service was never rushed, they would talk to you and explain the philosophy behind each dish, the story behind each of their many great local suppliers and the logic behind the pairings.
Having just 7 tables but doing everything to such a high standard means everyone definitely got the personal touch. I would swap this down to earth, personable approach for all the theatre that you get at some posh restaurants.
The restaurant owners Laurissa and Tom used to run The Rattle Owl in York before moving to Helmsley and setting up Pignut. As my wife commented ‘they’re so young’! But their passion behind their philosophy and actually living out their ethos regarding sustainability, wastage and local produce is plain to see. Many restaurants make claims – Pignut actually delivers.
I hope to be back with friends next year as this small North Yorkshire restaurant can safely compete with the big boys around Helmsley.
To find out more about Pignut: https://www.restaurantpignut.co.uk
As a postscript – Tom and Laurissa are to be married in January 2025 – congratulations and your success is well deserved.
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